Wednesday, May 14, 2008

It's a bittersweet symphony


I can't believe it, but this is it. The last day. The last supper. The final countdown. The end. The fat lady's singing. It's over. Donezo. It's a fact, listening to Bing Crosby's rendition of "Galway Bay" on repeat does not help the situation.

I spent this morning shopping in town a bit, yesterday I had a perfect day. I read by the Spanish Arches (and got a ridiculous sunburn) and went shopping, lunched at 4, ate banoffi pie, had a pint, and then went for my last trad at the Crane Bar. It was perfect. Today, I'm obviously procrastinating packing by writing this last post. I had coffee and a muffin by the bay today after I finished getting some last-minute items, and it was glorious. Still though, I guess Mom's right when she says I'm melodramatic. I kept thinking, "This is the last time I'll..." fill in the blank with every possible thing I can think of. But I think I'm just emotionally attached to life and people. I took this quiz online that said I'm too emotional because sometimes it can take me days to get over a story from a movie or book. So I guess it will obviously take awhile to stop missing Galway. Running around with rugrats in Maine all summer should help.

Things I'm leaving behind (on purpose, of course...they're just 'misplaced')
a pair of my favorite earrings
half of a pair of another favorite
4 earring backs (not including the aforementioned earrings)
facewash, that could have been stolen by an Australian couple in Cinque Terre
holey sheets and socks
old towels
2 umbrellas, snapped by the Irish wind
a couple pictures that were eaten by the wall behind my desk
a camera case
a pair of flats, mourned in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
a sweet bike...that wasn't really lost though it was returned for 50 euro (Score!)

So really, Ireland can never forget me because I have all this crap all over the place.

I could write a list of what I'll miss, or what the high points of the semester has been, but that would be too long. I'll just have to talk non-stop about Ireland for the next 5 years, and maybe then you'll hear the whole story. Maybe even the non-censored version! (Yeah, I'm wild and crazy and hitchhike and stuff) (I'm kidding, I don't hitchhike).

Tonight the last meal will be fish and chips at McDonagh's and pints at Tigh Coili. Can I just say I am so sad to leave my Irish bartenders? What lads. They're class. I don't know what I'm going to do about it...maybe Fairfield or Rutherford will get an influx of Irish bartenders? Maybe Shane will open a proper Irish pub in NJ instead of Poland? We'll see.

I cannot wait to see everyone. I am so excited to be home even though I hate to leave. I miss everybody so much, that is why Galway could never be perfect. I am so glad there are two family events before I move to Maine so I can see everyone. and of course, First meal of beefsteak! First breakfast, chocolate chip pancakes! First chance, hugs for all! I miss the U.S. of A.

In parting, lyrics to 'Galway Hooker' (remember, it's a boat, not WT)

At the end of the day down in Galway Bay
We set sails for the very last time

Now I cannot believe for you and me

It's time to say goodbye...

Sunday, May 11, 2008

oh yeah, seasonal affected disorder

What I MEANT to also add in that last blog is I think I have seasonal affected disorder (SAD), because I get infinitely happier when the sun is out. Apparently it is an obvious transition when the weather changes. I guess I'm never going to live here for life.

THE FINAL COUNTDOWN...Derry, Iron & Wine , and seasonal affected disorder


All I have been hearing in my head the last week has been the lyrics to the Final Countdown...like the part that sings "IT'S THE FINAL COUNTDOWN!" I need that out of my head, because every other minute it's this:

All my bags are packed
I'm ready to go
I'm standing here outside your door (Dunaras student accommadation)
I hate to wake you (roommate) up to say goodbye
But the dawn is breaking
It's early morn
The taxi's waiting
Hes blowing his horn (calling my Irish cell)
Already I'm so lonesome
I could die

So kiss me and smile for me (little leprechauns)
Tell me that you'll wait for me
Hold me like you'll never let me go
cause I'm leaving on a jet plane (Aer Lingus Airbus)
Don't know when Ill be back again
Oh babe (Galway), I hate to go

Sometimes I feel a little sick over it.

Sorry for the blogger delay, but this has actual been a hectic week. Last weekend I visited my friend Kyle from high school in Derry where she goes to school - and is graduating soon! In Europe college is only 3 years. Then I had a final Tuesday, Wednesday, and a paper to write that I need to hand in tomorrow. Wow who can believe it. I actually did so much work this week that I went out Friday in Derry and that not again until the other night..in other words, a week in between being in a pub. It's the closest I will come to detox in Ireland, I think.

Derry was fun. It is a medieval city with walls all around it, which we walked. The cannons are still intact in many places, and the walk is quite lovely. What is crazy in Derry is that the separation between the Unionists and Nationalists is still pretty clear. On one side of the wall, you can see the "waterside" where the Protestants live. Some neighborhood streets are painted in red, white and blue and Union Jacks are EVERYWHERE. Then you walk around the wall a little more and can see the "bogside" where the Catholics live, and where I was staying. There, part of the neighborhoods are painted with orange, white and green on the sidewalks. Kyle told me she was once in the waterside neighborhood for a school event with friends - with her "Southern" friends - and they got bottlecaps thrown at them. Derry is where Bloody Sunday took place, after all, is what she said. Two of her friends told me separately to not wander around Derry by myself, just in case. AH. Sunday we went to the Giant's Causeway. It's a World Heritage Site where all of the rocks are pentagon or octagon shapes, from a volcanic eruptions eons ago. Apparently on a clear day, you can see Scotland! Obviously, it wasn't a clear day when we were there. It was very beautiful, though. Very special. And there are many legends about the giants who made the causeway. Apparently the Giants on either side, one in Ireland and one in Scotland, had a fight, so the Irish giant (forgot his name!) scooped up mud to throw at him and voila! the causeway. It was beautiful. It was incredible to be in another country, really, but still in Ireland. The Northern Ireland accent is very tricky, I felt bad because my cab driver to the bus station was asking me question and I had to say "Excuse me?" at least 3x in the 7 minute cab ride. Whoops. It was so worth going though, and the 5 hours each way on the bus = optimum study time for my philosophy exam.

I had 2 exams this week, philosophy and Northern Ireland politics. Luckily, Kyle's friend Fiona told me all about Northern Ireland on a walk back from the pub one night, so that helped me catch up. I am a class crammer, that's for sure. Anyway, both went well. I went to the Claddagh by Galway Bay after philosophy and got sandwiches and a farmers tan with some of the other Fairfielders. What a fabulous day.

Also, no one in Ireland celebrates Cinco de Mayo. A lot of people don't even know what it is! But never fear, we Americans set the Dunaras population straight. The Corona was totally wiped from Dunnes that day, I had to get San Miguel instead, because the boys had bought it all. Never fear, pseudo-Mexicans are here! Feliz Cinco de Mayo.

Last night, Iron and Wine came in concert to Galway at the Blackbox Theater. I love it, Dad hates it, Mom likes it. It was a CLASS concert, absolutely incredible live. It was cool, I'm old enough to take beer into a concert now! I don't think they expected an encore either, because I have never clapped so long before the band reappeared onstage and then only half of them came back. He seemed pretty surprised and was really grateful for the applause AND that people were standing and dancing. I'm so lucky, I've seen 3 awesome concerts this semester. Wow. Anyway, they're kind of an indie folk sound, very relaxing, if I listen to it while I'm driving I'm likely to fall asleep. Check them out! http://ironandwine.com
Anyway, I think today might be a day to start packing. I had my last doughnut from the fried doughnut man at the market. I had my last Friday and Saturday in Galway. I had my last ride on my bike last week, it's returned. I probably rented my last movie in iTunes. (Thank goodness, they gouge you so bad). Somehow I have to figure out how to get gifts back to the United States without breaking them. Let's see, when I see you next, I'll probably talk to you about living in a risk society and the modern conservative view, because that's what I'm about to finish my paper on. Or how a chair is a Communist relationship.

Lots of love. One post to go. See you this weekend, or in 3 weekends. Cheers.

Monday, April 28, 2008

Finals Begin. Dum dum dum daaaaa


Who wants to take a final when it looks like THIS out?


not me!

Unfortunately, finals start today. I've already handed in papers for two classes and have 3 exams to sit plus 1 more paper (with no word length OR due date, so that's last). I have to leave in an hour to catch the bus because lecture finals are in the community center or the Racetrack. In order to get there, you have to pay 3 euro to take the bus to your mandatory final. These Irish are connivers...not even Fairfield stoops that low! I've been studying for a few days and am surprised at how well I know the end of the 100 Years War (although don't ask me about the beginning or the middle of it) and am definitely ready for history. Philosophy and Northern Ireland politics are next week - one week at a time!

This weekend I'm going to visit my friend from home, Kyle, in Derry. That should be lots of fun especially because I haven't gone to the north of Ireland or Northern Ireland at all yet. That is my last trip outside of Galway until I take the bus to Shannon Airport on the 15th. Yikes! Two weeks from Thursday!

Yesterday we had our Fairfield "farewell meal" and went to Bunratty Castle and Folk Park for a medieval banquet. Although no Medieval Times, this was definitely fun. We ended up at the table right next to the king! Who got really into his voluntary surprise role by the end of the night..I think maybe he had too much of the free flowing wine and mead? We had to eat with our hands and drink our soup; unlike Medieval Times we got the benefit of a "dagger" (steak knife that was made in Brazil). I really just felt so barbaric stabbing my food and eating it off the end of the knife. It was a little too Errol Flynn-Robin Hood for me. The castle is very cool and the entertainment was medieval ballads, Irish songs and ended with 'Danny boy,' of course. One of the madrigals they sang I sang in high school! There was a bagpiper outside at the end in full bagpiper attire - I didn't know bagpipers had attire but they do including big fluffy hats - which was interesting, and once my friend did some step dancing to it, you kind of forgot it sounded like fighting cats. In general, a grand evening.

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

"Stop the drama, vote Obama"


It is SO FRUSTRATING to be in Europe and not at home in the middle of all of this political primary craziness. What is the deal with the Democrats...at this rate Senator McCain could just skip into the White House because Hillary and Barack are already telling the country why not to vote for each other..and one of them will be the nominee..so really McCain's campaign staff just magically lucked out. Ahhhh. And the Irish just can't stop talking about it.

Sunday, April 20, 2008

The St. Nicholas Market

These are displays from one of my favorite things about Galway - the Saturday St. Nicholas Market. The market is all day Saturday behind St. Nicholas Church in a sweet alleyway. According to local hearsay, Christopher Columbus stopped by for a prayer on his way to "Asia" in 1492 (when he sailed the ocean blue).
The market has crepes, chili, hand knit sweaters socks gloves and hats, jewelry made of wood silver glass and pottery, doughnuts, muffins, fresh fish, flowers, organic vegetables, handmade ironwork, fruit, pies, homemade apple juice, vegetarian specials, south african sausages, cheese, fruit compotes and honey----I can go on and on. I live for the Saturday market.
Yesterday was a great day because I got there around 10, pretty early, and could buy all of my vegetables early. I usually bring a backpack and fill it up with vegetables for the week - it's cheaper and tastes better than the veggies at Aldi or Dunnes. Then I make sure to get some food! Since I was there in the morning I decided to go with an apple-pecan homemade muffin and bought a white hot chocolate at Butler's Chocolate Shoppe (mixing it up! usually a mocha coffee from Cafe Express). Sigh. I bought a present and got something for free so that way I would remember Peter and Bertie and remember, "make sure you come say hello now, when you're at the market like."
One of my favorite things is the doughnut man. He has a green and white striped tent w/ his daughter and they fry doughnuts and then toss them in sugar for you. Cocoa powder or cinnamon is optional. It tastes like funnel cake a little bit, and they are delicious. The doughnut man wears a straw hat with a flat top and a band around the edge and is always singing, no matter what. If you go to the market by the end of the day, there's a 1 in 2 chance he's already drunk! In the afternoon you could probably sit and watch the levels in his pint of Guinness all afternoon as he slowly works his way to happy drunk straw hat doughnut man.
Today was a lazy day. Last night we had a Passover sedar in my apartment because my roommate Lea and our friend Jake from downstairs are Jewish and they decided they wanted to host a sedar. There were 15 of us and we made huge quantities of food and had maybe 10 bottles of wine. It was so lovely, we cleaned and cooked all afternoon, Lea and Jake said a couple of prayers and we passed around herbs and charoset and horseradish and salt water--the boys from downstairs even put on collared shirts and ties! Or a sweater instead of a tie. It was all very adorable. Lea made matzoh ball soup, we were all very proud of her. We went out for some drinks afterwards, it was a great celebration!
In general though, I am getting homesick. I miss everyone terribly, especially because Mom left. I had been seeing my friend Liz almost every 2 or 3 weeks since I came over and I miss the girls from FU TERRIBLY as well. I had to call Sarah today. Sorry Mom I will give you $$ for that phone call. Anyway, I miss everyone at home. I will see the Carrolls at Jess's graduation and the Strahles at Jenn's wedding and I am so excited. Watch out, I am a professional drinker of Guinness now.
love. me.

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Drinking Guinness with Mom.

.
Mom came for an incredible week - she must have brought the sunshine because we had one twenty minute hailstorm all week! Every other day was sunny - literally sunny. We had a tough agenda! When I went up to meet her at the hotel, the bellhop said to me, "Be easy on her, she looked pretty tired when I moved her up before." Well, obviously he doesn't know anything.
The first day I took Mom to O'Mailles shop on High Street to look at all of the Aran knitwear. O'Mailles' tailors made the costumes for the movie The Quiet Man and are the best shop in County Galway to buy knitwear, I promise, even better than the Aran Islands. I am now on a first name basis with the owners because I go in so much. I've bought a lot there and have taken friends to spend money too - I think I'm pretty close to getting a commission now...

Mom bought a gorgeous purple sweater that she wore the rest of the week. She fits right in! Of course, our first stop in Galway was to get lunch and a Guinness! We went to the Quays (great pub) for lunch before we started shopping. Early dinner at the Park House Hotel, a great restaurant and where Mom was staying. She was tired, it was an early night! We were able to go to an early music session at Taaffes so she could hear some traditional music.

The next day we took a day tour of Connemara. Even though Mom rented a car (much to my fear? nervousness?) it was better to take a bus tour, because then she could see the scenery of the wild west! We toured all over with a bus driver named Steve, who sang us songs in Irish. A main part of the tour was Kylemore Abbey and its gardens. The Abbey is actually a castle, originally built in the 1600's by a man named Henry for his wife. I hope there are still men in Ireland who want to build castles for their women! That was beautiful. I think Mom's favorite part of the day was when we went outside Maam Cross to the bridge where John Wayne looks out on his cottage in the Quiet Man...it was a five minute walk to the bridge and she quoted the whole way. Let me tell you, I got in a lot of trouble for not seeing the movie in a long time!

We spent the next day in the Aran Islands biking, with perfect weather. On the island we saw my friend Jake (random) and his parents and then realized his uncle was my fifth grade teacher!! How wild can this get? I've been living with him for 4 months and we finally realize it. Again..it's a small world. I won the $5 by default. Anyway, we biked all over, to the fort, 7 churches, cemeteries, seal colony. The next day we went to Cong, where the majority of the Quiet Man was filmed, and Ashford Castle for tea. Unfortuantely we were not allowed in for tea because we weren't staying in the castle----bah, humbug. It was supposed to be served in the drawing room! I stayed over in the hotel Thursday night and the next day we drove 3.5 hours to the Dingle Peninsula. It was some of the most beautiful country I've seen in Ireland -incredibly green, lush, sheep, seashore, sweaters, flowers - it was perfect. That night we stayed in the hotel in Shannon. It was awesome! Mom rented a car...she can tell you about driving on the left side of the road, I've promised to keep it allllll on the DL.

Finally - what you are probably wondering. HOW much Guinness did Mom have, exactly? I can tell you that she definitely held her own! I can tell you that we did in fact pub crawl and eat fish and chips! I can tell you that YES she did have a Tullamore Dew and we DID go to my favorite 4am coffee place for after dinner food and beverage (wine and cheese for Mom, baileys coffee and a brownie for me). Mom loved Tig Coili the most, as I do -we are related, after all- and loved Salthill, and everything. She told me she didn't think about work once. I think that means a great vacation.
To end the description of Mom's trip, I think this conversation that took place a little before midnight on Thursday will be entertaining:

Katie and Mom are sitting at the bar at Tig Coili, listening to trad and drinking.
MOM: (picking up her tumbler of whiskey) Ooh! How much is left in this?
KATIE: I don't know. Mom just knock it back!
MOM: I need a shotglass, I can't drink this.
KATIE: Mom, just drink it out of the glass why do you need to dirty another?
MOM: Because this is more than a shot! I only wanted a shot!
KATIE: Mom, if you wanted a shot you should have ordered a shot! You ordered a Tullamore Dew.
MOM: Oh. Eee. (Mom knocks it back like a champ)


This video is from the traditional music at Taaffes.